CONTACT INFORMATION


CALL TO ORDER:

George "Sunshine" Lening
580-920-2085
george@graylinebaittanks.com

DIRECTIONS

We gladly accept:


NEW RELEASES


March 2014

INTRODUCTING: 3 NEW TANKS
The 11, 17 and 24 Gallon Oval
Tanks now come with a
Solid Lid, Blue Interior
and Removable Aeration
and Filtration System
click here for more info



Starter Kit
Interested in purchasing
a new baittank. Be sure to
check out our starter kit.
click here for more info


Sunshine Grayline Round Bait Tanks

The Grayline Round Bait Tank you have purchased is a result of years of working with a variety of forage fish both in fresh water and saltwater. We have seen a need for a "better system" and believe through many hours of design and redesign, the Grayline Tank, both the round and oval series, is one of the most efficient systems available anywhere today. The following instructions and suggestions will aid in keeping your bait alive and healthy for many enjoyable hours of fishing.

round bait tanks

HOOKING UP THE ELECTRICAL

Your Bait Tank pump comes pre-wired. The only connection that you will need to do is connect the open wires to your power source. The wire will have red paint (or a red sticker) on it and this connects to the positive power source. The other wire is to be connected to the negative power source. There is a quick disconnect that will be between the open wires and your pump. The connection will enable you to leave the power source portion connected but not have the pump connected when the bait tank is not in use or is being stored. Also, so that you do not have to reconnect the power source leads each time you use the bait tank. If for whatever reason the pump requires replacing please mark how the wires from the pump are used. The brown wire (positive) from the pump will need to be rewired to the positive feed to the power source. When using the tank for the first time and the water is not being pumped, it will be because the power feeds are not connected properly and you will need to reset the power connections.

If for whatever reason the pump requires replacing please mark how the wires from the pump are used. The brown wire (positive) from the pump will need to be rewired to the positive feed to the power source.

When using the tank for the first time and the water is not pumping, check the power feeds to see they are connected properly. If not, you will need to redo he power connections.

FILTER BOX PREPARATION

  1. Precut the supplied white Poly-Fil material into rectangular pieces to slightly larger than one of the black foam pads. Place all but 4 of these in a plastic storage bag for use later.
  2. Remove the two black carbon filter foam pads from the filter compartment and immerse them in water until completely wet. Return the black filters to the filter compartment making sure they are flat and evenly positioned in the bottom of the compartment.
  3. Place the four pieces of the Poly-Fil material on top of the upper foam pad and slightly wet the top layer with water with your hand. Keep several extra pre-cut pieces of the Poly-Fil material in a plastic bag in one of your storage area for future use.
  4. During the most extreme heat of summer months you might want to utilize activated carbon in your filter system for additional filtering. However, our experience has shown that during the cooler months this is not necessary. If you desire to use activated carbon, you should place a one-inch layer between the black foam pads. The activated carbon can be purchased locally from aquarium supply stores or directly from Sunshine/Grayline direct.
Note: Should the black foam pad become clogged, shut off the pump momentarily, allow any water above the pad to drain down, then remove the pad and rinse it in the lake. Reinstall the black foam pad, then the Poly-Fil sheets and restart the pump.

TANK PREPARATION

Fill the tank to the proper level, which is just to the bottom of the filter box. There is a line on the filter box to indicate the proper level. Over filling will flood the filter box and slow the filtering process. If city water is used, be sure to include a de-chlorinating chemical such as LCR (Liquid Chlorine Remover) at one teaspoon per 10 gallons of water in the tank. For instance if you have the 40 gallon tank add 4 teaspoons of LCR.

Add the LCR product that supports the specific bait you are retaining per the manufacturer's suggestions. When your choice of bait is freshwater shad, non-iodized salt can be used and is a clean, inexpensive alternative--one cup per 10 gallons of water. Non-iodized salt can be obtained at a Wal-Mart. Please be sure to use non-iodized salt.

Foam that is formed on the surface of the water in a tank can rob the water of the extra oxygen it could contain. Foam can be removed by adding "Foam-Off" per directions on the container.

TRANSFERRING BAIT TO THE TANK
  1. Baits should be shaken from your cast net straight into the transfer vessel containing lake water where culling must be done to eliminate loose scales, debris, and unwanted baits. When culling, use a small net instead of your hands to place the choice baits into the tank water. Handling the bait will induce damage to the bait as well as increase loss of scales.
  2. After you have all the bait you need, pour the contents of the transfer vessel back into the lake and return any unwanted baits to the lake as well.

ADDING BAIT FISH

  1. When adding bait to a tank, always try to keep count. Never over populate your tank with a bushel basket catch dropped directly into the tank. This results in a congested tank and over-contaminated water. Bait usually dies quickly because contaminates (scales and debris) enter the bait's mouth while breathing and cross over to lodge on the gills, preventing them from receiving oxygen. Never keep any small bait fish that you don't intend to use because they steal oxygen needed by the other baits.
  2. Remember the larger the bait, the smaller the numbers can be kept. The 25-gallon tank will keep 30-36 6" baits and 48-60 4" baits. The larger 35-gallon tank will hold bait in the same proportions.
  3. The round insulated tank is constructed to hold water temperature down in hot summer months, preferably to 62-65 degrees. The addition of bagged ice to the water after the bait is caught works good to keep the temperature down. Gradually bring the temp down by adding one bag at a time. This will not give the bait thermal shock like taking it from 80-90 degree water and dropping it into 65 degree water. A simple thermometer can be used to accurately monitor the water temperature. Another good method of reducing the water temperature is to use water frozen in half gallon milk type containers which can be reused. If using the drink containers be sure to have re-sealable tops so that the frozen water does not contaminate the water in the tank. Another trick here is to put some salt in the container prior to freezing which will cause the ice to be somewhat cooler.

DRAINING THE TANK

After removing all unused baits from the tank into the lake, remove the plug from the back of the tank and allow the water to drain into the lake. If you are using a separate pump to drain the tank insert it into the tank and drain the water over the side of your boat.

If you have any questions please feel free to call or contact us anytime.