Hooking Up The Electrical
Your Bait Tank pump comes pre-wired. The only connection you have to do is connect the open wires to your power source. The wire will have red paint (or a red sticker) on it and this connects to the positive power source. The other wire is to be connected to the negative power source. There is a quick disconnect that will be between the open wires and your pump. This connection will enable you to leave the power source portion connected but not have the pump connected when the bait tank is not in use or is being stored. Also, you do not have to reconnect the power source leads each time you use the bait tank.
If for whatever reason the pump requires replacing, please mark how the wires from the pump are used. The brown wire (positive) from the pump will need to be rewired to the positive feed to the power source.
When using the tank for the first time and the water is not pumping, check the power feeds to see they are connected properly. If not, you will need to redo the power connections.
Filter Box Preparation
Precut the supplied white Poly-Fil material into rectangular pieces to slightly larger than one of the black foam pads. Place all but 4 of these in a plastic storage bag for use later
Remove the two black carbon filter foam pads form the filter compartment and immerse them in water until completely wet. Return the black filters to the filter compartment, making sure they are flat and evenly positioned in the bottom of the compartment.
Place the four pieces of the Poly-Fil material on top of the upper foam pad and slightly wet the top layer with water with your hand. Keep several extra pre-cut pieces of the Poly-Fil material in a plastic bag in one of your storage areas for future use.
During the most extreme heat of summer months you might want to utilize activated carbon in your filter system for additional filtering. However, our experience has shown that during the cooler months this is not necessary. If you desire to use activated carbon, you should place a one-inch layer between the black foam pads. The activated carbon can be purchased locally from aquarium supply stores or directly from Grayline Bait Tanks.
NOTE: We use new Poly-Fil on every recharge of the tank. Poly-Fil can be obtained at local discount stores, sewing stores, or hobby stores. It is used as a filler for quilting. The 3 or 4 ounce weight is the best.
Tank Preparation
Fill the tank to the proper level, which is just to the bottom of the filter box. There is a line on the filter box to indicate the proper level. Over-filling will flood the filter box and slow the filtering process. If city water is used, be sure to include a de-chlorinating chemical. LCR (Liquid Chlorine Remover) is added at one teaspoon per 10 gallons. For instance, if you have the 40 gallon tank add 4 teaspoons of LCR. Non-iodized salt can be obtained at a Walmart. Please be sure to use non-iodized salt.
Add the LCR product that supports the specific bait you are retaining per the manufacturer’s suggestions. When your choice of bait is freshwater shad, non-iodized salt can be used and is a clean, inexpensive alternative – one cup per 10 gallons of water. Non-iodized salt can be obtained at a Walmart. Please be sure to use non-iodized salt.
Foam formed on the surface of the water in a tank can rob the water of the extra oxygen it could contain. Foam can be removed by adding “Sure-Life” Foam-Off per directions on the container.
Transferring Bait To The Tank
Baits should be shaken from the cast net straight into a transfer vessel containing water where culling must be done to eliminate loose scales and unwanted baits. When culling, use a small net instead of your hands to place the choice baits into the tank water.
After you have all the bait you need, pour the contents of the transfer vessel back into the lake and return any unneeded baits to the lake.
Adding Bait Fish
When adding bait to a tank, always try to keep count. Never over-populate your tank with a bushel basket catch dropped directly into the tank. This results in a congested tank and over-contaminated water. Bait usually dies quickly because contaminates (scales and debris) enter the baits’ mouth while breathing and cross over and lodge on the gills, preventing the bait from receiving the air needed. Never keep small bait fish that you don’t intend to use because they steal oxygen needed by more desirable baits.
Keep in mind that the larger the bait, the smaller the numbers that can be kept. The 25 gallon tank will keep approximately 30-36 6″ baits and 48-60 4″ baits. The larger 35 gallon tank will hold bait in the same proportions.
The round insulated tank is constructed to hold water temps in hot summer months, preferably to 62-65 degrees. The addition of bagged ice to the water after the bait is caught works good to keep the temperature down. Gradually bring the temperature down by adding one bag at a time. This will not give the bait thermal shock like taking it from 80-90 degree water and dropping it into 65 degree water. A simple thermometer can be used to accurately monitor the water temperature. Another good method of reducing the water temperature is to use water frozen in half gallon milk-type containers which can be reused. If using the drink containers, be sure to have re-sealable tops so that the frozen water does not contaminate the water in the tank. Another trick here is to put some salt in the container prior to freezing, which will cause the ice to be somewhat cooler.
It is not recommended to add ice or frozen water directly as there may be contaminants which will harm the bait.
Draining The Tank
After removing all unused baits from the tank back into the lake, remove the plug from the back of the tank and allow the water to drain into the lake. If you are using a separate pump to drain the tank, insert it into the tank and drain the water over the side of your boat.
If you have any questions, please feel free to call or contact us any time!